ABDF

Hi everybody!

Greetings from Batticaloa!

I drove out from Colombo Monday. My friend, Nallaratne, picked me up in his van around 8:30 in the morning, and we arrived at my house at 5 that afternoon. As always, it was a long drive. But I’m happy to say I found the experience less exhausting that usual; perhaps I’m getting used to it, or maybe I just got extra good sleep the night before!

I’ve described the journey before, so I won’t repeat myself here. I will tell you that there is now significant road building and improvement going on in the East. Normally, once you pass through the town of Pollonaruwa and enter Eastern Province, the road quality declines significantly while the number of checkpoints increases. It seems there is an inverse proportion. Anyway, the checkpoints are all still there, but the government has been repairing and expanding the road east. Slowly, segment by segment, a good road is being laid. I hope that eventually all of the main north-south road will be brought up to standard. That’s what I hear the plan is, anyway.

It was a great homecoming. The entire extended family was waiting for me, as were some of my friends. I try to avoid stroking my ego, but it made me feel really good.

I’ve spent the last week rushing about madly. I’ve done an extensive scrubbing of my quarters, and had to do some replacing of various accoutrements that had not made it through the last four months. For example, I looked at the inside of my kettle for the first time since I bought it last year. Ick – corroded. And probably not healthy to drink from. So some of my days were full of running errands in town. Also my friends and project partners all wanted to see me RIGHT NOW to say hello. It has been difficult trying to prioritize without hurting feelings.

What with all this busy-ness, I sort of hit the wall Friday afternoon. After lunch I got a raging headache and lost all my energy. I haven’t really adjusted to the climate yet, and I broke one my cardinal rules and let myself get dehydrated. So I spent the afternoon under the ceiling fan, drinking water, and doing nothing. Too much too fast, I guess. Felt fine on Saturday, though.

One thing that makes me happy, though, is that I have been so quickly approached about projects, both old and new. In the past, everyone seems to wait until the second half of my stay before coming to me. But now, in less than one week here, I’ve gotten status updates on most of last years’ projects and many really cool ideas for projects this year. I suspect it has something to do with my returning for a second full year of work; by returning when I promised I’m showing that I can be relied on. So to all of you readers who have been so supportive this year: THANK YOU!

Some things this year are the same as before, other things are different. For example, Easwaran, the student who rents a room here is still here, still studying such horrific things as Statistics and Quantum Mechanics. To each his own! On the other hand, Jordan, my Canadian friend with whom I worked during tsunami times is also here; normally our timing is off and we pass each other like ships in the night. When he’s here I’m not, and vice-versa. This is the first time I’ve seen him since 2005, and I’m very happy to have him around. He’s around for another week or so, then off to India. He’s not sure if he’ll be able to return this summer, but he hopes too, if he can raise the money in Canada.

On Wednesday I went to the Synergy office to see my four students, “the kids” as you will remember me calling them. They are still working there, and VERY eager for class to resume. As I was having Crazy Week at the time, we decided to officially start up again tomorrow, Monday. I am very enthused about having class again; it was probably one of the most fun (and stress-free) parts about last year. So again, to those who helped get me here again this year: THANK YOU!

So how about an amusing vignette? OK! There is this little shop I go to right near my house. It’s down Kudah Lane a bit, then directly across the little bridge over my lagoon. Its family run, and last year I spent several pleasant afternoons sitting talking with the older lady and her grown sons. They sell basic groceries and household goods; soda pop, onions, detergent, that sort of thing. So I walk there Monday evening after I got in, as I needed to get a couple of things, like water, right away. I show up, and there is an outcry “Ben! You came back!” (as if I had never told them I was) and I was sat down in a chair. Now normally when you see someone after a while you talk at some length about how each other’s family is doing, how was the trip, etc. Well after very hurriedly going through the formalities, all the family wanted to talk about was Barak Obama! Obama, Obama Obama!

This is one thing I was very touched to discover. Every Sri Lankan, from the highest to the lowest, from Minister Sivalingam, to the security guard at his office, wants to talk about Obama. He has become the hero of all Sri Lankans and while they understand that the President has huge and complex problems to face, everyone here believes in him. Obama has inspired the people here, not just with hope for the future, but also into action; folks who I know who have never done anything community-oriented are suddenly joining local groups of various sorts to try to make a difference. It’s really rather mind-boggling to me. And I understand that this is a reaction you find around the world.

I’ve been thinking a little about this. I believe it all comes from a basic affection Sri Lankan have for the United States, but especially for our ideals of equality, freedom, justice, and opportunity. To Sri Lankans, and others around the world, America is the physical embodiment of all these ideals. It’s interesting to note that the Declaration of Independence and the Gettysburg Address are part of the standard curriculum in school here. So the image of American and Americans is very high.

Most Sri Lankans have been extremely disappointed with our last President. Rightly or wrongly, in Sri Lankan eyes the last Administration betrayed these ideals. And many of them almost felt personally hurt and confused. Sort of like if someone you deeply admire, if not love, turns around and slaps you in the face. However, this has changed overnight, and Sri Lankans are once again in love. And filled with optimism and hope.

So this January, many people here in Batti stayed up late to watch the Inauguration live on Sri Lankan television. I hear that people had parties for the event and that for the first time in a long time people were out on the streets at night celebrating. This is particularly significant as most people fear the night and lock their gates shortly after sundown. All this for someone who isn’t even President of their own country!

For Tamils here, Obama is especially symbolic. To say that they ever thought a black man, a minority, could be elected US President is an understatement. Tamil reaction is one of stunned, yet thrilled, amazement. Given the situation here, it’s understandable. If it can happen in America, why can’t it happen here in Sri Lanka some day? 60 years ago the situation of black folk in America was similar to that of Tamils present day. I met a kid on Thursday who said he wanted to be the first Tamil President of Sri Lanka. And now he thinks that maybe it might just be possible. THAT is what Obama means to Sri Lankans, and especially Tamils.

Of course even in a backwater like Batti, average folks are aware that America is in trouble, even if they don’t entirely know the mechanisms involved. And, surprisingly, despite the high expectations, no one is expecting instant solutions. They know that it will be years before America can solve its own set of crisis, before it will be able to tangibly help the nations of the world. But they seem ready to wait.

At any rate, I find it all rather astonishing.

The overall situation in Batti has improved somewhat. While there is still some violence here, it has decreased since last year. In particular the series of incidents between Tamils and Muslims has ceased, and relations are slowly getting better. Round-ups, in which whole neighborhoods are cordoned off and houses searched, have dwindled away. So as of now, most of the problems are restricted to internal fighting between the two factions of the TMVP, the main militia in charge here. For more on that, I refer you to last years’ dispatches.

Batti still has its problems, though. The unemployment rate is on the rise and while inflation has leveled off, people still find it difficult to make ends meet. The military and police are obsequious and still almost 100% Singhalese. And as I mentioned above, there are still problems with the militias. Despite a much-publicized disarmament two weeks ago, no one really believes that the militias have given up their weapons.

On the positive side, militias are slowly giving up their child soldiers. Just least week a batch was turned over to the Red Cross, with the declaration that these were final children. Of course they say this each time. But at least those poor kids are being let go and returned home.

The fighting in the North continues. The LTTE is still confined to a tiny strip of coast, and still refuses to let their civilian human shields flee to safety. The International Red Cross has managed to evacuate a couple small shiploads of the aged, mentally disabled, the sick, and some children and pregnant women. Estimates vary, but it seems there are still at least 50,000 ordinary people trapped. To their credit, the Sri Lankan military has not launched an all-out final attack, which would result in a huge bloodbath. I don’t know if this is to prevent a large loss of soldiers, but they say it’s to keep civilian causalities as low as possible, given the circumstances. I give them the benefit of the doubt on this, as the world (especially India) is watching closely. I suppose the strategy is to keep up the pressure in hopes that more civilians will run for it. As it is, civilians do cross the battle lines in dribs and drabs. The conditions they report are truly horrendous.

So that’s it for the moment. In my next dispatch I’ll give an update on some of our projects and describe a few upcoming ones as well. I hope you are doing well, and are as happy as I am.

xoxoxoxoxoxo

B.